Цветовые коды в традиционном женском костюме у коренных народов Севера

Abstract

Представленное исследование связано с проблемой цветовосприятия в этнической культуре. В центре внимания автора оказывается искусство народного костюма, представленное у коренных малочисленных народов Тюменского Севера. На основе цветового теста Люшера проводится сравнительный анализ цветовой символики в народной одежде ненцев, хантов и манси и выявляются цветовые коды, которые соотносятся с особенностями этнической картины мира и жизненным укладом. Устанавливается связь между цветовыми предпочтениями в традиционном костюме и этнопсихологией народов Севера.

The study connected with the problem of color vision in the ethnic culture. The focus of the author is the art of folk costume for the indigenous peoples in Tyumen North (Khanty, Mansi and Nenets). Using Luscher color test, the author developed the criteria for the analysis of color symbolism in traditional costume: dominant (primary colors that craftsman presents traditional clothing highlights as a characteristic for their ethnic group and keep it as an ideal which we should follow). This criterion correlated in tests Luscher with a «+» – wants to be; the subdominant (color ornamental symbols that usually tell about the relationship in human world). The criterion is matched, according to Lusero, with the function of «x», which is as a manifestation of human capabilities in interaction with outside world. Tonic (color accents in the stripes and small details) corresponds the function of «=», meaning the actions the person performs, and, in the opinion of the author, with ethno-psychological features of master as a representative of the national community, ethnic group. The author thinks that base on criteria helps to perform color symbolism in traditional costume and to correlate it with the ethnopsy-chology. The article considers the traditional women's clothing of the Nenets, the Khanty and Mansi from the Museum collections in the cities of Tyumen, Tobolsk, Khanty-Mansiysk, due to their greatest authenticity in traditional clothes, especially on the background of modern dynamics suit for indigenous peoples of the North. Every Museum thing has color analysis on three defined criteria, and then occurred the interpretation of the analysis according to the method Luscher color diagnostics. As a result there is psychological characteristic of every master and his support in traditions of the ethnic community. It was connected with the characteristics of ethnic groups, the ethnopsychology. The research shows the possibility of correlation in personal and psychological characteristics of traditional masters, based on the analysis of psychological patterns in color perception. The author used the psychology inherent in the ethnic group, considering the relationship between the color codes in traditional costume and the ethnopsychology of people in the North.